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Old 08-06-2007, 05:12 AM
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Default ZeoVit Basic Information (FAQ)

ZeoVit Basic Information by Shadowramy

Some say that ZeoVit is just the latest ‘snake oil’ to hit the reef market, while others praise the colorful results it gets. Still others believe the results but believe the system is just much too complicated and too expensive.

First let me state that this article is in no way meant to explain scientifically how the system works or sway you one way or the other to buying into ZeoVit. I am asked a lot about the zeovit system so I really wanted to sit down and give my thoughts. I am mainly writing this to try and explain in laymen's terms what the system is about for those that are interested in knowing about ZeoVit.

I have been running a ZeoVit system successfully for over three years now. Before that time I ran a basic Berlin system using live rock, live sand, and a skimmer with strong lighting. Later I added refugium full of macro algae to help nutrient export.

Around 2005 prodibio came on the scene, people where getting some great colors using the system, others were not getting much of anything. I decided I would give the system a try.

After about six months using the prodibio system I was getting some really good results as far as algae reduction and lower nitrate and phosphate levels. I was cleaning much less and was able to feed much more. I then read a forum where people where incorporating ZeoStart as a carbon source with the prodibio system. I decided to give it a try. Again, even better, my corals were growing faster with brighter colors and I was having very little issues with any algae.

Prodibio was a great start but I was wasting much of it because the dosage size. Dosing is done every 14 days and I only had a 75 gallon tank so I was only using about half the product and dumping the rest.

I then decided to find out more about zeovit since I was already using ZeoStart and dabbling in Amino Acids. Upon my research if found very mixed results, the scientific community seem to frown on the system, primiarly because the designer of the system, Thomas Pohl, would not release the ingredients of what is in the additives.

What Does ZeoVit Do?

Let’s start off with what does the ZeoVit system do. Zeovit is a system that incorporates bacterial sources to help rid a system of excess nutrients. Some have labeled this as one of this first well publicized ultra low nutrient system or ULNS. The idea is to mimic natural seawater (NSW) parameters by reducing the levels of Nitrate and Phosphate without lowering other essential parameters such as Calcium and Magnesium.

The best way that I understand this is a two step process; 1) the system removes excess nutrients such as nitrate and phosphate through bacteria sources and skimming. 2) Once ULNS has been achieved, you may 'tweak' coral colors through additional Zeovit additives.

Well isn’t that what you are suppose to accomplish in a reef system? Can I do that with a nice high-end skimmer and frequent water changes? Well yes, but there are some nice side benefits to the zeovit system that we will talk about later.

Many think by reading nitrate and phosphate at ‘undetectable’ on their trident test kit they are running an ULNS, however, very few test kits can measure nitrate and phosphate at those low levels. Typically, zeovit users use a photometer such as the Hana meter to test for phosphate. The Hana meter digitally reads down to .001. In Zeovit, there are visual identifiers that signify you are past one step and ready to move to the next. Simply adding a food source such as amino acids without running your system through step one will result in just adding more nutrients to your system and the result might not be that good.

One note; Zeovit is not a ‘cookie-cutter’ system, since every system is different and has different needs, the dosage and products of zeovit will vary from one tank to another. Although Zeovit is a very precision system you will get your best results by watching your corals and letting them tell you what is needed. Zeovit uses some basic introductory guidelines to get you started.

The Basic Four
The basic four is the absolute minimum you will need to incorporate (purchase) for the zeovit system. The other Zeovit products are 'as needed' additives and suppliment to help improve or tweak your system. In addition to the basic four, you will need some type of Zeovit reactor and use Carbon 24/7 every 30 days.

Think of these as porous man made rocks that absorb something, specifically reef toxins (I would say nitrate and phosphate but nobody knows for sure if these actually remove them or help bind them so your skimmer can easily remove them). Zeovit uses a mixture of different zeolites that have been found to best reduce toxins in a saltwater system. Exactly how they work has been much debated; from a theory of bacterial colonizing to locking-up or removing ammonia, to a transformation process of nutrients to a different ion. Sorry, I have no idea of how it works just that it does.

The zeolites are stored in a reactor, which looks a lot like a Calcium reactor without all the extra do-dads on it. It is a single chamber with a second chamber inside the first with a handle that protrudes out of the top. The Zeolites are placed in the second chamber and once a day the second chamber is ‘pumped’ to clean the zeolites of mulm (algae build up). This mulm is said to actually feed corals.

Zeolites are changed out at approximately every six to eight weeks (I have never had good results with zeolites lasting past eight weeks). I assume the exchange rate is based on the amount of nutrients you have in your system much like activated carbon.

One thing I know for sure, running a zeovit system without zeolites will not work to its full capacity and using a different ‘ebay’ zeolite will not work. I can absolutely tell when my zeolites are expelled and no longer fit for use, my corals will look faded.

This is a bacteria source that is used to colonize the zeolites, live rock and/or sand beds which help reduce nutrients. The biggest difference in my option about other carbon sourced systems such as a vodka or vodka/sugar/vinegar (VSV) is that they do not incorporate a bacteria source. It has been theorized that running a system that is totally reliant on ones own tank to produce the necessary bacteria can result in one bacteria completing against another bacteria. This competition can result in a mono-culture of bacteria which does not remove nutrients at all.

Zeobak is dosed every day initially, after colonies have established in your system this is drastically reduced to once or twice weekly.

This is a food source for your corals and bacteria, since you are basically starving your corals of excess nutrients you need to put something back in for your corals to feed on. Since zeovit has introduced so many other food sources such as amino acids and Xtra, I rarely use this product any more.

Initially dosed at approximately five drops per 200 net gallons.

This is the carbon source; it smells like an Easter egg coloring kit (vinegar). I am sure it is some mixture of vinegar, sugar and/or something else but not sure exactly what. Initially, this was the carbon source I used in conjunction with Prodibio BioDigest and it worked very well.

ZeoStart helps in the reproduction of nitrifying bacteria which basically ‘eats’ phosphate and nitrate. Zeostart works in conjunction with zeobak (the food for the bacteria) and zeobak works in conjunction with the zeolites.

Zeostart is dosed at approximately 1ml per 200 net gallons.

Additional Parameters

Additionally, zeovit incorporates GAC carbon that is run 24 hours for 30 days and then exchanged. This can be run passively in a bag or through a reactor. Zeovit does have their own brand and I have used it with great results. I have also used hydro-carbon and Seachem matrix with good results. You do want to watch out for aggressive carbons such as ROX. For me ROX was just too much for my system and reduced my growth in some corals.

It is also assumed in the Zeovit method that you are using strong lighting and a good protein skimmer that is skimming DRY. I have actually had very good result in using a basic skimmer such as an ASM G3 on my system skimming dry. I really believe you want a good skimmer but not one that is too oversize for the system that is going to pull out all your additives that you are putting in, this is the reason as to NOT skim wet.

Refugiums, phosban reactors, phosphate removers, denitrification reactors, algae/turf scrubbers, ozone and UV filters are not needed and should be removed before you start the zeovit setup.

Finally, in order to effectively use zeovit you need to run your system as close to natural seawater levels as possible. This mean an alkalinity of 6.5-7.5 dKh, Calcium 410-430 mg, Magnesium 1250-1300 mg, Salinity 33-35 ppt and Potassium (K+) 380-400 mg. Therefore the salt you choose is very important, you want something with a low alkalinity, high potassium and good Calcium levels.

ZeoVit supplements

Zeovit goes onto add supplements that target certain aspects for coloring, growing and improving your zeovit system. When you first setup a zeovit system, stick with the basic four until you achieve ULNS status which can take anywhere from three months to a year. It took me a good six months even after using the prodibio system.

The zeovit supplements are what I consider ‘tweaking’ supplements. They are specifically used to tweak color, growth, recovery time, and aid in problematic issues. My advice is to use only one supplement at a time and measure the results. If you add too many supplements at once you won’t know what one is doing from the other.

Below is what I recommend in the order I recommend them. I will give a basic description of each, if I use the supplement and the result I have seen.

Coral Foods

AAHC (Amino Acids)
AAHC was the first supplement I started with. Right away I noticed a ‘fuller’ coral with polyp extension. Typically most of my polyps would extend at night time but since I started using the AAHC I was getting much better expansion during the day.

If you are still adding zeofood I recommend you half does AAHC, if you over dose you will most definitely get brown algae and sometimes cyano.

I dose 3 drops daily on a 200 net gallon system about one hour before my light kick off for the night.

Coral Vital (CV)
I really liked coral vital in conjuction with AAHC. AAHC seem to help give good polyp extension while CV help with coloring. Using CV a lot of my staghorn corals developed full color instead of just tip color. I also noticed an increased growth rate. I usually mix CV up with whatever I am feeding that day and dose all at once.

I dose 5 drops per 200 net gallons.

Color Enhancers

There are a lot of theories about potassium in a reef system. Some say it is not needed, some zeoheads say the process of bacteria exchange through the zeolites and skimming removes too much potassium that needs to be added later.

I use K-Balance only as needed. There is a test kit but it is very difficult to read. I use my Montipora caps as identifiers. When they start to get this washed out grey tone to them I add about 2 ml of K-balance every other day until they look bright again.

It is also said that an overdose of potassium can result in Acropora tips being burnt. I have seen picture of this but never experienced this myself.

Potassium Iodide (PIF and Job Complex)
Potassium iodide really helps the color of blue and purples in your system. I usually alternated between PIF and Job Complex because each contains a little something different.

I also dose based on what I see. If my blues are faded I will dose 3 drops of PIF one day and 3 drops of Job Complex the next until my blues are back. It doesn’t take much and usually end up dosing each about twice a week.

Also I watch my yellow corals. Signs of adding too much include yellow corals turning green, if this happens, stop (unless you like the green color).

This boosts green and some red coloring in corals. Use very sparingly, over dosage can cause major algae issues.

I dose 3 drops once a week.

Xtra has become one of my favorite additives for two reasons. Not only does the dosing of Xtra increase polyp extension, it adds a level and depth to corals. It is very difficult to explain, but if you look very closely at a coral you see an underlying almost phosphorus tint to the coral that glows, it almost looks like the skeleton of the coral glowing.

The second reason is that Xtra at a double dosage aids in the recovery of coral fragging and when adding new corals. It was suggested to me when I moved from my 75 gallon tank to my 120 gallon tank to double dose Xtra for two weeks. I did, and I did not lose a single coral. I have also noticed that on a fragged coral, the tissue is replace over the cut in a much shorter amount of time.

I am not sure to what to label Xtra as, maybe a food or a color enhancer. By dosing Xtra, I dose my AAHC a lot less (almost half dose) and I eliminate all zeofood dosing. Also, since using Xtra, I no longer use ZeoSpur.

Currently I am dosing 1 to 2 ml every other day opposite sponge power.

Sponge Power
Sponge power is really a mixed bag, it is basically used to feed sponges which in turn process vast amounts of water acting as a natural filter cleaning and polishing the water. However, it does also increase the growth of aptasia and other glass anemones.

It is also said to increase the colorization of purple, I have yet to really see this.

I currently dose 5 drop every other day opposite Xtra.

Problem Solvers

I am labeling these as problem solvers since they are generally used to solve some issue or used as maintenance additive to cleanup something.

Coral Snow
Coral Snow is generally used to reduce yellow in your tank that carbon doesn’t absorb. CS has a nice side-effect; it has been report to help remove cyano bacteria (algae) from a system. Since I have never had cyano I can not really comment.

I primarily use CS when I do water changes to help clear or neutralize acid compounds.

I dose 2 ml into my water change bucket once or every two weeks.

This is a very new product that I though I would give a try. It is said to help with cyano and help clean sludge from sand beds and live rock. Right now I have only dosed a couple of times, once by itself and once with zeobak. I have experienced increased sludge in the skimmer, a darker nastier skim mate. As far as additional coral coloring, I have yet to see anything but it is still early.

There are a couple other products from Zeovit but I either no longer use them or simply do not currently use them.


Since this is just a basic understanding of what the ZeoVit system is, it is diffuclt to come to conclusion other than from my own experiences. For me, zeovit has been a great system that allows me to tweak colors to my liking. The cost is neglible considering you would probably spend about the same amount trying to reduce nutriets through other means. The system is also a very easy system to maintain as long as you pay attention to what your tank is tell you.

Zeovit.com - http://www.zeovit.com/
Zeovit Guide version 1.03 - http://www.korallen-zucht.de/files/z..._english-1.pdf

Originally posted by ShadowRamy - http://www.shadowramysreef.com/index...d=24:chemistry

Last edited by G.Alexander; 08-31-2010 at 03:43 AM.
Old 09-18-2009, 04:17 AM
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Default Different ZeoVit phases by Aged Salt

ZEOvit phases depend on the nutrient level & coral appearance. Nutrients are relatively high[with "pooled-reserves"] & corals are dull in coloration. Polyp-extension may or may not be present.

Consider phase 1 the initiatation of ZEOvit method. The basic 4 are used to reduce nutrients in a balanced manner. As nutrients & "reserves" are depleted, the corals become brighter, lighter in appearance & the quantities of the zeo's dosed becomes less.

Enter phase 2[~3-6mos], the corals continue to colorize more & nutrients are becoming more exhausted. During this phase, however, if dosing is stopped for more than a few days, nutrients again begin to rise, & corals become darker. This is due to "pooled-reserves" still remaining available.

Phase 3[5-10months] is characterized by stable nutrients & color appearance of the corals, ie. if the zeo's are not dosed for many days, the N03's/P04's do not increase & coral colors remain fast. In this phase, the stored nutrients are exhausted, as evidenced by the low quantites of Bak/Food7/Start used, with coral color intensive.

Last edited by G.Alexander; 08-31-2010 at 03:41 AM.
Old 09-18-2009, 04:19 AM
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Default A General Review of The ZEOvit System by GaryW (Mesocosm)

The purpose of the ZEOvit system is to easily and reliably create, and maintain, a poor nutrient environment in marine aquaria similar to a the natural reef environment. The goal of the system is to reduce nutrients as nitrate and phosphate without lowering the levels of important minerals, like calcium and magnesium, and carbonate hardness, which are also adjusted to a natural reef environment.

In order for the ZEOvit method to be successful, a few fundamental husbandry techniques and equipment components must also be included in your aquarium's design and operation. These requirements include strong and efficient skimming, lighting appropriate and sufficient for the aquarium's inhabitants, regular weekly water changes, addition of elements at low levels, non-excessive addition of nutrients, and optimum and stabile water parameters (Ca, Mg, KH, Salinity).

The five basic components of the ZEOvit system interact to effectively reduce nutrients, and establish water conditions close to the parameters corals encounter in the natural habitats. The five basic components are:

1. A Balanced Mix of zeolites (ZEOvit).
2. A Microorganism Solution (ZEObak).
3. A combination of Bacteria and Coral Food (ZEOfood)
4. Bacteria Food (ZEOstart)
5. Constant Filtration with Activated Carbon

The reduction of nutrients and the establishment of a poor nutrient system results from the interaction between ZEObak, ZEOfood, ZEOstart, and the zeolite filter media (ZEOvit).The three different zeolites of the media were chosen because of their ability to reduce certain toxins in a balanced manner. It is important to "clean" the ZEOvit filter media daily to maintain optimum performance. The filter device which holds the ZEOvit (commonly referred to as a "reactor") is specifically designed to accomplish this task within a minute. However, it is not detrimental to overall system performance if you are unable to perform this task for several days.

The interaction between ZEObak, ZEOfood, ZEOstart, and the zeolite filter media (ZEOvit) produces a "mulm". The "mulm", released from the ZEOvit material, contains bacteria that is used as food by the corals. This is very important because it provides nutrients to the animals, and has a very positive impact on the colors, polyp extension and vitality of the corals. Large Polyped Corals (LPS) react with fully expanded tissue.

Certain other elements are adsorbed as well, and require replacement to counteract depletion. We strongly recommend replenishing those elements, and we offer supplements to be used with this system for that purpose.

The ZEOvit method can be successfully used with bare-bottom (BB), shallow sand bed (SSB), deep sand bed (DSB), and Berlin-style system designs. The use of live rock (LR) is not required. UV sterilizers, ozonizers, and nutrient exporting macroalgae refugia are not compatible with the ZEOvit method.

This post is just a brief review of the ZEOvit system. More background information, and detailed methodolgy instructions are presented in the ZEOvit "Guide."

We strongly recommend to read and understand the guide before you start with the system. It contains vital necessary information to have success with the system.

Again, please feel free to post any questions that you might have. We look forward to answering your questions, and to sharing our knowledge and experience with you.

Last edited by G.Alexander; 08-31-2010 at 03:41 AM.
Old 09-18-2009, 04:20 AM
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Default Storage of ZeoBac - BioMate & Coral Vitalizer by G.Alexander

After all the discussions how ZeoBac - BioMate & Coral Vitalizer should be stored I have talked to Korallenzucht.

They recommend to store the products in the temperature range of + 4 degree C to + 20 degree C which would be + 39.2 degreeF to + 68 degreeF.

Last edited by G.Alexander; 01-21-2011 at 04:07 AM.
Old 09-18-2009, 04:20 AM
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Default Kalkwasser by G.Alexander

The kalkwasser will bind PO4 from the water column and this compound will accumulate at the sand and rocks for example. Under several conditions the PO4 can be leached back in the water column, also algae for example can pick up the PO4 directly from the substrate. It can be typical for such systems to have no detectable PO4 in the water column which several kind of algae grow very well.

Kalkwasser does not have a direct impact to the system or its components so its more a general advise.

Last edited by G.Alexander; 08-31-2010 at 03:40 AM.
Old 09-18-2009, 04:21 AM
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Default ZEOvit Additive Troubleshooting Guide by HotHotHot

Hi All,
We all know that the ZEOvit additives are good stuff; both safe and effective when used as directed. But sometimes through our own error of adding too much of an additive , or the accumulation of a particular substance, we can experience unexpected results.

This thread is intended to be a troubleshooting guide for beginners and experienced ZEOheads alike. Much of the preliminary information for this thread was gathered from http://www.shadowramysreef.com with permission.

I'd like to break the additives down into 2 basic categories: organic and inorganic. "Organic" means living, biological, or food. "Inorganic" means mineral based, or non-living. If you believe something has been miscategorized please let me know.

Feel free to add your experiences with these additives and we will update this post as necessary.

Listed below are all of the ZEO additives.

In general, overdosing organic substances leads to all kinds of undesirable results such as nuisance algae, cyano, bacteria blooms, etc.

Amino Acid LPS
Intended use: Coral food
Positive results: Growth, general color, PE
OD Symptoms: Brown & light green film, darkening

Amino Acid HC
Intended use: Coral food
Positive results: Growth, general color, PE
OD Symptoms: Brown & light green film, darkening

Sponge Power
Intended use: Increased sponge growth
Positive results: Enhanced coral growth, thicker tissue, increased sponge growth
OD Symptoms: Brown film

Intended use: Establish biological filtration, coral food
Positive results: Nutrient reduction, color enhancer
OD Symptoms: Browning, darkening , transparent slimy patches

Intended use: Increase coral and bacteria growth.
Positive results: Nitrate and nitrite are reduced
OD Symptoms: Nuisance algae, cyano, darkening, brown film

Intended use: Liquid filter medium, remove yellowing compounds, nitrate, phosphate
Positive results:
OD Symptoms:

Intended use: Accelerates the cycling process in new tanks, color enhancer, soft coral growth and PE
Positive results: Growth , PO4 und NO3 reduction
OD Symptoms: brown film forming air bubbles at lighting period

Intended use: Improved biological functions, Better coral growth, Cleaner sand, Helps combat slime algae & cyanobacteria, improved skimming
Positive results: Reduced sludge on live rock and sand.
OD Symptoms: Temporary yellowing of water , temporary increase of PO4 in older nutrient richer systems

In general, overdosing inorganic substances can lead to severe problems due to toxicity. STN and RTN are 2 forms of tissue death we can experience.

Intended use: Polish water, remove toxins
Positive results: Clearer water, lower nutrients
OD Symptoms: Pale coral colors and reduced PE due to rapid nutrient reduction, RTN, coral death

Intended use: Nitrate and phosphate removal
Positive results: Clearer water
OD Symptoms: Pale coral colors and reduced PE due to rapid nutrient reduction, burnt tips

Calcium Plus
Intended use: Increases calcium
Positive results: Increased calcium levels
OD Symptoms: Precipitation

Iodide Complex
Intended use: Color enhancer, aid crustation molting
Positive results: Lower death rate during crustation molting, PE
OD Symptoms: Yellow corals turn green, darkening of SPS, increase of cyano if they are already established in the system

Intended use: Color enhancer
Positive results: Increased green color
OD Symptoms: Nuisance algae growth, green shimmer on yellow corals , darkening of SPS tissue

KH Plus
Intended use: Increases alkalinity
Positive results: Coral growth, natural alk levels (6.5-7.5 dKH)*
* SeaChem Reef Salt user should aim for 8.5dKH
OD Symptoms: High alk readings, burnt tips

Coral Snow
Intended use: Nutrient delivery, secondary biological facilitator
Positive results: Can remove cyano
OD Symptoms:

Magnesium Complex
Intended use: Raise magnesium levels
Positive results: Increased growth, stabile calcium and alk
OD Symptoms: High magnesium readings, burnt tips

Intended use: Color enhancer
Positive results: Slow lighting in SPS tissue, increase of coloration
OD Symptoms:

Coral Vitalizer
Intended use: Coral food
Positive results: Coral growth, PE
OD Symptoms: Brown film

K-Balance Potassium (Strong)
Intended use: Raise potassium levels, increase growth and coloration
Positive results: Natural K+ levels (380-400mg/l) , increase in several colors, PE, thicker tissue, growth
OD Symptoms: Burnt tips, darkening, algae growth, brown film

Intended use: Color and growth enhancer
Positive results: increase of SPS coral coloration / tips
OD Symptoms: Darkening

Potassium Iodide Fluoride
Intended use: enhances blue colors
Positive results: increase of several colors / PE
OD Symptoms: Darkening, yellow corals turn green , increase of cyano if already established in the system

Strontium Complex
Intended use: Growth enhancer
Positive results:
OD Symptoms:

Intended use: Specifically for seriatopora, stylophora and poccilopora. This supplement will bring out the original color of these animals with daily dosing.
Positive results: slow lighting of tissue in those corals
OD Symptoms: if continuous overdosed in high quantities clams might retract

Intended use: Color enhancer, trace elements
Positive results: Lighting of SPS tissue, increase of several colors
OD Symptoms: Bleaching

ZEOspur Macro
Intended use: Contains various metal salts, trace elements
Positive results: Coloration
OD Symptoms: Darkening

Intended use: Color enhancer, trace elements
Positive results: Lighting of SPS tissue, increase of several colors
OD Symptoms: Bleaching

Last edited by G.Alexander; 08-31-2010 at 03:40 AM.
Old 02-06-2010, 12:58 AM
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Default Initial 14 day cycle by Korallenzucht

Day 0:

Install an appropriate sea water tank, install the sump, install necessary PVC tubing and make sure to give the glue enough time to dry !

Day 1:

1. Water
Fill the system with reverse osmosis water, if possible use the RO unit with a filter resin as last stage. Warm up the water to 20-25° C and install current pumps at the same time.

2. Current
We recommend a smooth and broad flow, about 20-30 times of the tank’s volume per hour. Also well approved is the combination with Osci-Motion – they create a very natural shifting streaming due to the pivoting pumps.

3. Sea salt
As soon as the water temperature is around 25 °C add salt slowly into the current and adopt the salinity around 34 %o. Live rock can be added as soon as the salt has dissolved completely and the water is clear.

4. Live rock
It is very important to use fresh and clear live rock, approx. 10 % of the tank’s contents After you bring in the live rock in the tank, the sand bed is next. At this time the skimmer is started as well as the ZEOvit® filter and the tank needs light now!

5. Sand bed
Now you can add a shallow sand bed. Use crushed Coral Sand or Aragonite. Do not use Live Sand in combination with the ZEOvit® system. Soak the material in reverse osmosis water for 3-4 days before use and replace osmosis water daily. If the PO4 level of the water is close to zero the sand is ideal.

6. Start the ZEOvit® filter and skimmer
Use 1 liter ZEOvit® for each net 400 liter (100 US gallons) of water tank volume. Do not exceed flow rate through the filter of 400 liter (100 US gallons) per hour maximum per each 1liter ZEOvit®. Make sure to run the reactor with a continous flow. Start your protein skimmer.

7. Lighting and other technical equipment
Start the lighting min. 10 hours per day. Start also all other technical equipment now.

8. Dosage
The addition of ZEObak, ZEOstart and Sponge Power can be started now.

ZEObak: 5 ml per 100 liters/25 US gallons
ZEOstart: 10 ml per 100 liters/25 US gallons
Sponge Power: 3 ml per 100 liters/25 US gallons

Day 2 and Day 3

Dosing break.

Day 4:

Dose ZEObak, ZEOstart and Sponge Power as recommended on the products Label daily until day 14:

ZeoBac 1 drop / 100 liters/25 US gallons
Sponge Power 1 drop / 100 liters/25 US gallons
ZeoStart 0.1 ml / 100 liters/25 US gallons 2 x daily

Day 4-10:

Different algae phases can appear, like some brown slime algae followed by some healthy green algae. Use the same dosage like described for day 4 above. Double check Salinity.

Day 10:

First herbivore fish (max. 2 per 200 L) can be added, also sea urchins and turbo snails. You should also be able to add the first not to sensitive corals like branching Montipora. Add now the Activated Carbon.

Activated Carbon:
As soon as the first animals are stocked into the system, add the Activated Carbon: 0.5 – 1 Liter per 1000 liters as recommended. Replacement interval 30 days.

Day 11-14

Keep dosage as described for day 4. Test Carbonate Hardness and Salinity carefully. More corals can now be added into the system if the basic water parameters are in the recommended ranges. Additional fish can be added but should be done very slow. Also fish feeding has to be done very carefully in this phase as biology is not very stabile in this phase. Do not add more fish than 1-2 fish per 250 liters per week. After additional 4 weeks you can add the rest of the fish which where planed for the system.

Starting from day 14:

ZeoBac 1 drop / 100 liters/25 US gallons 2-3 x weekly
Sponge Power 1 drop / 100 liters/25 US gallons daily
ZeoStart 0.1 ml / 100 liters/25 US gallons 2 x daily

The dosage needs than eventually be adjusted depending to the general look of the tank, the parameters or the corals. Later on, additional products can be used. We would recommend to start wit the regular water changes at week 4 – 6.

Last edited by G.Alexander; 11-27-2013 at 03:20 AM.
Old 08-31-2010, 03:38 AM
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Default Battling Nuissance Algae - ZeoZym & Coral Snow by mrvicz


Take 0,5-1L Aquawater in a cup, take your quantity Zeozym in the cup and mix it, wait 30min and mix again and dose it in the Tank, stop your skimmer for 1 or 2 hours. When you have problems in the Tank then you wait 8 hours after first mix before you use in the tank and you can take a quantity of Zeobak in the mix too, than you have stronger results.

Skimmer should be switched off in both cases, if mixed with Bac or not to keep the “substances” in the water column for a longer time, otherwise it will be skimmed out relative quick.

The mixture should ferment in a lidded container.

If needed both Bac and Snow should be added to the container after the 8-10hrs wait, at about the same time giving the mixture ~ 15 - 30 minutes to soak in.

For coral reefs w/o issues, forego the Bak, & mix ZZ in some tank water, allow to mix for 10 min. to 30 min then dose. Skimmer off is


You can use 0.5 to max. 4 ml Coral Snow per 25 gallons daily.

When used to eliminate cyanobacteria, add 1 drop of ZEObac per 25 gallons of tank water to the Coral Snow. Dose every two days until cyanobacteria is gone.

It is not necessary to turn the skimmer down or off during dosing
Old 09-25-2013, 02:47 AM
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Default How to set your ZEOvit reactor flow rate in US gallons by Chris S

Remove the exit tube on the side of the reactor. Take a 1/2 gallon pitcher and time how long it takes to fill the pitcher to the 1/2 gallon mark. Reference the chart below and adjust the flow rate based on the number of net gallons in your system.

A 25 gallon system should fill a 1/2 gallon pitcher in 72 seconds. (144 seconds per gallon. 3600/144=25 gph)

A 50 gallon system should fill a 1/2 gallon pitcher in 36 seconds. (72 seconds per gallon. 3600/72=50 gph)

A 75 gallon system should fill a 1/2 gallon pitcher in 24 seconds. (48 seconds per gallon. 3600/48=75 gph)

A 90 gallon system should fill a 1/2 gallon pitcher in 20 seconds. (40 seconds per gallon. 3600/40=90 gph)

A 120 gallon system should fill a 1/2 gallon pitcher in 15 seconds. (30 seconds per gallon. 3600/30=120 gph)

A 150 gallon system should fill a 1/2 gallon pitcher in 12 seconds. (24 seconds per gallon. 3600/24=150 gph)

A 180 gallon system should fill a 1/2 gallon pitcher in 10 seconds. (20 seconds per gallon. 3600/20=180 gph)

A 225 gallon system should fill a 1/2 gallon pitcher in 8 seconds. (16 seconds per gallon. 3600/16=225 gph)

A 250 gallon system should fill a 1/2 gallon pitcher in 7.2 seconds. (14.4 seconds per gallon. 3600/14.4=250 gph)

A 300 gallon system should fill a 1/2 gallon pitcher in 6 seconds. (12 seconds per gallon. 3600/12=300 gph)

Too much flow: You risk corals dying from base up and TN on coral tips.
Too little flow: You risk nutrients not being processed as fast as they should.

Last edited by G.Alexander; 12-04-2014 at 03:21 AM.
Old 10-21-2013, 02:54 AM
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Default Algae. Why and how? by Zanders

Just a quick rundown on algae in your tank. What causes it and why?
Well below are some of the most common reasons and you really should look into the things below to start your journey to get rid of them or avoid them completely.
  • The intensity and quality of light they are exposed to. Led's can be a huge factor because of their intensity so keep that in mind and start slow, ramping them up slowly. (also good for not killing new coral additions)
  • The amount of Dissolved Organic Compounds algae are fed.
  • The amount of phosphate, nitrate. Diatoms feed on silicates.
  • Using tap water or having a reverse osmosis filter with bad filtration capacity and no silicate filtration. Tap water usually contains nitrates, phosphates and other unwanted elements.
  • Low water flow or circulation in the aquarium are also a factor and can be a bigger problem than you think.
  • Using a poor quality salt mix. Some actually contain a lot of bad elements and even phosphates.
  • Clean the tank of excess amounts of nitrates, phosphates and other unwanted elements. Like Vacuuming Sand and spots where circulation wont reach.
  • Clean the skimmer often so its working properly.

Also all additives that you use that contain any nutrient should be stopped while having a algae problem or u will only feed them.

Sometimes people say well i do not have any phosphate and my nitrate is really low as well but i still have algae? It could be as easy as that your algae actually are growing and using up the amount of nutrients in the water. So how can you really tell?

Well its still growing. And leaving it there and letting it die and dissolve is also a big factor for it to just keep coming back since it by that point gets even more nutrients to feed on. Thats why cleaning is so important. Remove any excess algae as much as you can by hand without dropping half of it back into the tank and correct your mistakes and it will eventually go away.

Keep the above list in your head and make sure to avoid problems before they happen. Algae need food to survive just like anything else. So Keep the water as close to natural sea water levels as you can and keep it there.

I know this is common knowledge but its worth reading anyhow!
Old 12-12-2013, 03:28 AM
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Default Diluting ZeoStart3 for Automated Dosers by NanoTopia

By diluting ZeoStart3 solution you can more accurately dose smaller amounts of Zeostart3 in an automated way via peristaltic doser. This prevents possible missed doses and improves consistency and delivery of the carbon source to sustain balanced amounts in the system.

I have been using this method for a year with good results.

Consider the following mixing ratios first.

1:19, ZeoStart3/RODI water. 1 part ZeoStart3 (say 100mL) to 19 parts RODI water (say 1900mL) will yield you 2000mL of solution. Each 1mL of solution will contain 0.05mL of ZeoStart3.

If you wanted to dose a total of 0.5mL per day of ZeoStart3 divided into 2 doses (0.25mL x 2), you would set your doser to deliver 5mL twice a day (5mL x 2 = 10mL of solution) = 0.5mL of ZeoStart3.

1:9, ZeoStart3/RODI water. 1 part ZeoStart3 (say 100mL) to 9 parts RODI water (say 900mL) will yield you 1000mL of solution. Each 1mL of solution will contain 0.1mL of ZeoStart3.

If you wanted to dose a total of 0.5mL per day of ZeoStart3 divided into 2 doses (0.25mL x 2), you would would not be able to do it because most dosers deliver only 1mL minimum and 1 mL of solution contains 0.1mL of ZeoStart3. So this Ratio only works if you are dosing even numbers daily (like 0.2/0.4/0.6/0.8 mL and so on), get it? The 1:9 ratio is better when dosing larger amounts of ZeoStart3 with even numbers. You could dose more than 2 times daily to try and equal the total amount dosed per day but that just makes thing more difficult.

As long as you stick to the ratio, any amount of solution can be created. I recommend only making the amount that will fit in your dosing container at a time. Prolonged storage of the solution only increases the risk of contamination over time.

To dilute ZeoStart3 properly, follow this:

Depending on the accuracy of your doser (most are not that accurate) I recommend 1:19 ratio for dilution. A 1:9 ratio can also be used but I would only consider this ratio if your dose amounts will be over 5mL per dose.

It is also a good idea to calibrate your doser before beginning with RODI water. This will avoid wasting ZeoStart3 solution and risking overdosing the tank. Dosers should be calibrated and tested frequently for accuracy of dose.

The goal is not to introduce bacteria to your solution, this will cause contamination as the bacteria feed off the solution and multiply over time. This will generally cause the solution to become cloudy. To avoid this I recommend following the below steps as best as possible.

You will need a container to hold the solution that seals and can withstand temperature sterilization, usually glass works well.

Boil some RODI water and wash the inside of the container, lid, and all tubing (used for drawing the solution to the doser and tank.) Discard this water, do not dry with a cloth, do not touch any of the surfaces that will have contact with the solution. Place the items on a clean or sterilized surface to cool naturally.

Boil the required amount of RODI water to be used for your solution. Once at the boiling point remove from heat and allow to cool naturally. This may take some time so you can speed up the process by placing the boiling container in a ice bath (be sure not to contaminate your boiled water in this process). You should also cover the water to avoid what is called "bacterial rain", this is bacteria in the air that will fall to the surface of the water and contaminate it. It is best if you can complete the cooling within 30 minutes time to lower the chance of contamination.

Pour the cooled and measured amount of RODI water into your dosing container.

Add the measured amount of ZeoStart3 to the RODI water.

Place the lid and tube on the dosing container and swirl the solution for 60 seconds to mix it. You are now ready to connect the solution bottle to the dosing pump. Adjust the dosing pump to deliver the desired amount of ZeoStart3 solution twice a day. You can also dose 4 times a day but consider with a smaller dose delivery amount, the accuracy of the dose will also decrease. Most dosers will dose a minimum of 1mL, consider this when planning your dose amounts and frequency.

The solution will stay mixed without future or continual mixing. You could swirl it once a week if you are in doubt.

I recommend you check the actual amount of solution being delivered as the hose is normally positioned. This should be done on a regular basis just to make sure your doser is working properly. This can be done effectively by catching the solution as it is being delivered in a graduated cylinder. If you don't have a graduated cylinder, you could also use a syringe, remove the plunger and plug the hole where the needle would attach.
Old 10-28-2014, 05:21 PM
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Default Preparing KZ Carbon before use [Video] by NanoTopia

Made a little video on how to prepare carbon before adding it to your system. Even if you use another brand you can use this technique.

Christine L.

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Last edited by G.Alexander; 10-30-2014 at 03:20 AM.
Old 01-14-2015, 06:26 PM
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Default ZeoVit Basic Information (FAQ)

For all the full ZEOvit users, those who are using ZEOvit/ZEOlites/Stones and dosing ZEOstart3 along with other additives - it is not recommended to use any form of PO4 absorber, GFO, or other type material in conjunction with the ZEOvit System.

Some people feel they have not achieved ULNS using the ZEOvit System and feel they need to add additional media like PO4 absorber to "help" reduce PO4. I can tell you that if you have elevated phosphorous in your system it is like because your rock or substrate is leaching it, or you have not adjusted your system properly. Bad live rock will experience die off for quite some time as the organics break down over time. It is better to select good healthy live rock from the beginning to avoid this. It does take some time for a new system to become stable, usually 6-12 months.

ZEOvit, if used according to the recommendations, will maintain low nutrients in any well balanced system. If the ZEOvit is having to deal with leaching and die-off (described above) you can expect it will take additional time to achieve low PO4.

By adding PO4 absorber to the system, you create a "competition" for PO4 between the ZEOvit and PO4 remover. Usually the PO4 absorber will win this competition and the first result will be die-off of nitrifying bacteria on the stones, which will result in the "stalling" of the ZEOvit (stones) in the reactor. This then causes NO3 to increase and other issues to arise.

Don't be fooled by algae. The fact that you have algae in your system does not necessarily mean you have high PO4 or nutrients in general. It does not necessarily mean the ZEOvit is not doing it's job. Algae can grow where there is light and a minimal amount of nutrients available.

Don't trust the test kit. Most test kits that measure nutrients are not accurate or consistent enough for our use. This includes the Hanna Phosphorous Checker, which often gives misleading results due to user error and reagent batch.

Do trust. Trust the ZEOvit System as it is proven to work "if" you follow closely the ZEOvit Guide recommendations and provide good husbandry skills in a well thought out reef tank.

Be patient. "Patience is a virtue", the old saying is true to the ZEOvit System, depending on the start condition of your tank it will take some time (months) to achieve a stable low nutrient system. "Stable" is the key word here, especially when referring to nutrients. Fluctuating nutrients in your system will only cause issues and often fool you into taking drastic actions at some point - like adding PO4 absorber. Avoid this. Aim to achieve a balanced and stable low nutrient system over the long term.

ZEOvit is a system or methodology that maintains low and balanced nutrients in a stable way for almost any reef tank... "IF" you follow the method and it's recommendations. If you choose to change or vary any of the components that make up the ZEOvit System, expect you will have some issues, if not right away, then eventually.

The above are "my" thoughts and recommendations based on "my" experience with the ZEOvit system. I offer this advice in hopes it will aid users in some way.
Christine L.

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