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  #31  
Old 11-18-2017, 12:14 AM
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G.Alexander G.Alexander 目前離線
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Difficult to recommend a test kit if it comes to real low nutrients. I had good experiences with Hanna photometers (not the checkers as I never used one), also with test kits from Merck and Machery Nagel. For salinity I have used a device from Greissinger. Usually the other parameters like Ca, KH and Mg the available Hobby test kits from Tropic Marin, Salifert and RedSea usually working well if they are not to old.

Make sure not do dose AAHC, Coral Vitalizer and Pohl's Xtra to soon, you can start to used them when your system contains corals and when it is running nutrient poor stabile.

G.Alexander
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  #32  
Old 12-05-2017, 12:30 PM
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@G.Alexander
I have gotten my AAHC, Coral Vitalizer and Pohl's Xtra. I have more corals in the tank now, while not nearly full, and the tank appears to be running nutrient poor stable. Which of these would you start with as an experiment to see how the corals react? They all appear healthy but have undergone various color changes on entering my system. My local store has raceways of beautiful corals and frags. very bright and colorful but also strictly under blue LED's. Moving to my system (metal halides and actinics) has caused some color changes, the yellows turning more green, one a little browner, some corals getting paler... but no deaths. I would like to try a light dose of one. Which is the best to start with?
Thanks,
Jeff
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  #33  
Old 12-05-2017, 01:16 PM
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Hey, man, just my experience:

I had algae issues with my tank for 13 months. For the first six, I tried to aggressively fight them and ended up killing some corals. After the 8 month mark, I got some good advice from some very experienced SPS growers, leave it along. As long as it's not killing corals, let it ride. After 13 months they completely stopped like magic--and my tank is so stable, that last week my DoS ended up dumping an 8 month supply Coral Booster in my tank and it just got processed out with no negative affects. I did do a 30% W/C so that's a lot!

So, if your Algae isn't killing any corals and your corals are thriving. Add more, pull back a TINY bit on your dosing, monitor the colors, and let the algae deplete it's food supply and die off.
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  #34  
Old 12-06-2017, 05:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shredded View Post
@G.Alexander
I have gotten my AAHC, Coral Vitalizer and Pohl's Xtra. I have more corals in the tank now, while not nearly full, and the tank appears to be running nutrient poor stable. Which of these would you start with as an experiment to see how the corals react? They all appear healthy but have undergone various color changes on entering my system. My local store has raceways of beautiful corals and frags. very bright and colorful but also strictly under blue LED's. Moving to my system (metal halides and actinics) has caused some color changes, the yellows turning more green, one a little browner, some corals getting paler... but no deaths. I would like to try a light dose of one. Which is the best to start with?
Thanks,
Jeff
Hello Jeff, the spectrum change will cause changes for the corals to which they first need to adopt. There is no way to speed up this process, just time. I would recommend to wait some time until the tissue gets lighter and the coral start to grow. That might be the right time to start dosing those products.

G.Alexander
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  #35  
Old 12-27-2017, 06:01 PM
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Hi all!
So, my tank is now about 6 month old now and my former algae problems did not return. After two dozes of Vibrant, and the resolution of the algae issue, I stopped dosing Vibrant and continued with the dosing recommendations. Those are as follows:
12 drops ZeoBak 2 times per week
12 drops Sponge Power every other day
1.2 ml twice per day
12 ml Coral Snow every other day
We were gone on vacation for 9 days. I had a non reefer taking care of the house and we rehearsed what she needed to do every day and I left detailed instructions and a check list plus daily pics and texts. Even though she appeared to follow the instructions perfectly, there were still some noticeable differences in some of the corals when we returned, however those issues reversed themselves in a couple of weeks. Possibly she didn't measure dosages as carefully? Who knows, still I cannot complain as she did a very good job and all as been going well.

I have been increasing the bioload slowly and have added 4 new fish. I large yellow tang and 3 dotty backs, Pseudochromis fridmani, Pseudochromis springeri, and Pseudochromis aldabraensis, bringing the total to 9 fish in a 300 gallon, so still a light load. All are doing well. Some initial aggression between the yellow and purple tang but that has been settled and while not buddies, they are quite tolerant of each other even sharing a sheet of Nori.
Coral coloring seems to be good. some have darkened some but have reached a plateau. My blue Oregon Tort is as bright rich blue as ever. While i do have some growth on some corals, I would not say it is rapid.

My NO3 and PO4 have climbed slightly over the past month and stabilized at 3 ppm and .04 ppm respectively. What i have noticed recently is that by night fall there is peppering of diatoms on the gravel in a few areas around the tank. By morning they are mostly gone but return during the day. It appears that it is spreading slowly. My current tank readings are:
Temp: 76
Salinity: 1.024
NO3: 3 ppm
PO4: .04 ppm
Mg: 1360
Ca: 430
Ka: 8.1

Feeding is moderate, once per day.
Skimmer is skimming fairly wet.

Do I need to adjust any dosages to account for my new diatom issue?
A thought: I am at the bottom of 500 ml bottle of ZEOStart and it has some crystallization. Is it possible that bottle is trash? Should I open a new bottle and toss that one?

Observation: since I started dosing the Sponge Power, the sides of the overflows are covered with dozens of white sponges (maybe tunicates). I'm assuming these are good.
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  #36  
Old 12-27-2017, 11:49 PM
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You might try to vacuum the sand areas where the algae grow for some time regular while each water change to remove the mulm from the deeper layers.

Your dosing regimen is fine but I would recommend to cut down CoralSnow once the algae have gone completely to 2 x weekly.

The crystals on the bottom of ZeoStart is not normal, I can not tell you if it is a real problem but I would personally use a different one. I have seen something similar in the past with other products they where stored in the fridge, ZeoStart should be stored at normal room temperature at a dark, dry place.

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  #37  
Old 12-28-2017, 12:42 AM
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Thanks G.Alexander! Yes, my products had been stored in the fridge. I saw your advice to someone recently how they should be stored and I corrected that but not before causing the crystalization. I was just wondering that maybe the product was now inactive and that could explain the slow upward drift of nitrate and phosphate. While not high, I didn't have the diatom issue before but several non zeovit reefers say that my NO3 and PO4 levels are much better now then when they were too low to be measured by my Red Sea and Hanna tester. Is this a valid statement when it comes to a ULNS tank? My corals all look
Very healthy and while some are showing growth, what is required to get maximum growth from my corals. I feel I am missing part of the puzzle.
Thanks!
Jeff
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  #38  
Old 12-28-2017, 11:57 PM
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Hello Jeff, just store ZeoBac, BioMate and CoralVitalizer in the fridge, all others at normal room temperature in a dry dark place. My personal experience with keeping SPS corals in a system without detectable PO4 and NO3 levels (hobby grade testing) is positive and if everything else is OK (water levels, light, biology, to aggressive skimming etc.) you should not have issues with it usually.

G.Alexander
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  #39  
Old 12-29-2017, 09:18 AM
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Did you mean Coral Snow or Coral Vitalizer in the fridge? I thought I had read Coral Snow went into the fridge and Coral Vitalizer was just kept cool and dark? I'll need to swap them if not.
Thanks,
jeff
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  #40  
Old 12-30-2017, 12:03 AM
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Hello Jeff,

this is the recommendation from the manufacturer:

http://zeovit.com/forums/showpost.ph...33&postcount=4

CoralSnow should be stored at normal room temperature.

G.Alexander
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  #41  
Old 01-10-2018, 05:41 PM
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Hi All,
So, wasn't sure if I should split out into a new thread or not, but since all my info is here and the problem is similar, Ill just continue here. So, up above, I noted that I had begun having some diatom problems. I wasn't too concerned at first but they rapidly got out of hand. At first, the small amount that would grow on the sand in spots would be gone in the morning. Soon however it progressed to where they were not all gone and then during the day, got worse. Yesterday i noticed that some of my corals did not look as happy as normal. I ran some tests. My nitrates were at 3 ppm, (Red Sea Pro) where they always are, they never budge, but then when I ran phosphates, my Hanna checker showed 50 ppb. (.153 ppm). I verified with my Red Sea Pro. This is double the highest that I have ever measured. I immediately added 650 grams of Kent Phosphate Sponge to a reactor and put it in line with one of the return pumps. This is a non aluminum based, phosphate and silicate remover. It can only be left in a maximum of 48 hours to prevent the phosphates and silicates from being released back into the water. This amount is supposed to lower .1 ppm to .05 ppm in 120 gallons of water in 5 hours. I didn't want there to be too drastic of a drop, so this was the amount I chose. I refreshed the activated carbon and put a fresh liter in a bag and put it loose in the sump. This was at 9:30 pm CST. Today at 11:30 am CST, the Phosphate now measures .07 ppm, so, about half of what it was and we have not reached the 24 hour mark. The metal halides were just coming on so it will be a bit but I think things were definitely better when I viewed them under T5 Actinics. i will leave the phosphate sponge in until tomorrow but will pull it out tomorrow long before it hits 48 hours. OK, so, this is just a stop gap... I have to find the source. My corals, at least a few had gotten very pale, two of them almost white and I had started dosing Amino Acids and Coral Vitalyzer. I add this fact only because maybe there was a possibility that it added to the problem as the issue already existed. I will say that one of my bright yellow acros that had turned white started to color up again upon adding these two components. I have checked my RO/DI and it does not appear to be the issue. If I understand things correctly, the nitrate is supposed to feed the bacteria that in turn uses the phosphate so the nitrate is the limiting factor, but I have nitrate, a very consistent 3 ppm and still the phosphates rose. I did change the zeolite a few weeks ago but I dosed Zeobak for 10 days, actually 11 as it fell on one of the normal dosing days. I have seen this issue mentioned before. Help??? What's gone wrong?
Jeff
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  #42  
Old 01-10-2018, 06:19 PM
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Jeff its dangerous to lower phosphate so quickly I remove the sponge now and lower the phosphate with the zeovit.
My question is what are you doing for it to jump so high
when you feed only feed what the fish eat no more
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  #43  
Old 01-10-2018, 07:25 PM
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Agreed! But that's what I don't know. How do you adjust what I am dosing when I see that my phosphates are starting to rise? Increase Zeostart? I don't fully understand the controls.
Light bioload, 9 fish, 4 clams, assorted crabs and shrimp. Feed once per day. I provide enough so no one goes hungry but aren't fat. 15 gallons water changed per week, one gallon at a time, automated. To me, it looks like my system stalled.
Jeff
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  #44  
Old 01-10-2018, 09:31 PM
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I do 40% water changes bi monthly but its still not enough I started using No3pox (methonal) from red sea also going to start using prodibio in a few days and special blend.
Zeostart 3 will likely add more nitrate I would not consider 9 fish a small bio load I keep two fish in a 90 and still run into issues
If your going to stick with the zeovit route I would up the amount of bac/mate/cyanoclean you add to the tank or you could start using vibrant again. Your bateria is clearly not keeping up with or at least keeping in check some of your issues.
Perhaps you added some high phosphate activated carbon to keep orp up as all carbons are a source of phosphate ash
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  #45  
Old 01-11-2018, 03:54 AM
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Hello Jeff, there must be a reason why the PO4 level has rise that quick, usually this does take place much slower if the import is higher than the export / processing.

Have you changed anything or added any kind of new equipment in the last 4 weeks ?

As Bugger has mention the quick decrease of PO4 with a absorber does cause additional damage to the corals so make sure to slow down to decrease the level.

G.Alexander
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