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  #46  
Old 01-11-2018, 12:35 PM
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@bugger Some questions... 40% water change 2 times per month and its not enough? Also, 2 fish in a 90 gallon? Are they really, really big fish?

OK, I kid you, but this brings up some questions...

First, you see all these pics of tanks full of corals and schools of fish... so how is that a large bioload? My tank is 300 gallons and I have 2 tangs, purple and a yellow, 3" and 4" respectively.... 4 small clowns, 1" to 2", Mandarin Goby, 3", and 3 small dotybacks, ranging from 1" to 2-1/2". The clams are 2, 2.5" Squamosas and 2, 5" Maximas. Is this really a large bioload as I was literally thinking, eventually, of having somewhere close to 30 to 35 fish, depending upon their possible eventual size. Is this not realistic? Will the ZeoVit system not support this?

Secondly, I know sometimes, as i have, you use other products to accomplish something specific but the main direction for this site is to attempt to run ZEOvit as a stand alone system, capable of keeping a ULN system. Right? Meaning this is not just another salt water tank board with me screaming "help me my phosphates are too high, what do i do?"
With having to do such large water changes and the additional products, is the ZEOvit system not able to accomplish this? I am only changing 60 gallons per month, so approximately 20%, not quite, as my water changes are done a gallon at a time so, in reality, Its not a full 20% but I did consider it enough.

@Bugger and G.Alexander... OK, so by the time I got home, and pulled the Phosphate Sponge, Phosphates barely show as a trace now. Apparently a very efficient product. And yes some items looked a little stressed last night but these were corals that also tipped me off that something was wrong to start with besides the diatoms. I went ahead and fed, dosed as usual, including the AA, CV and shut the lights down for the night. This morning for what I could tell, things seem to be better. I will see once the lights are on at lunch.

How do i get this under control and prevent this from happening? No new equipment has been added. Now, new livestock, yes. Also, during all this, there were five new frags that were in the back of the tank. Those, along with most corals showed no negative reaction. AND, i have 22 coral colonies in transit at this time. Now, they will be going into quarantine but I want to figure out what it is that I am doing wrong and stabilize the tank before attempting to add these. If I am understanding this right, its my bacteria population that seems to be at issue as it is not able to handle the phosphate being produced. I have a Vertex reactor and dose thru the port on the lid, which seems like it immediately flows out of the reactor, but it also flows right to the pump to be "injected" back inside the reactor.

Here is my current dozing schedule.
12 drops ZEOBak 2 times per week
12 drops Sponge Power every other day
1.2 ml ZEOStart twice per day
12 ml Coral Snow every other day
3 Drops AAHC daily one hour before lights out
5 Drops Coral Vitalizer daily one hour before lights out
1 ml Pohl's Xtra every other day (opposite Sponge Power)

Help?
Thanks,
Jeff
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  #47  
Old 01-11-2018, 02:45 PM
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Bugger Bugger 目前線上
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Keeping 30 fish is a recipe for disaster. Your already running into problems imagine even more fish.
The thing is most people think that zeovit is so good at keeping ULNS but the fact of the matter is GFO and other methods are much better at keeping ULNS.
Zeovit is very slow to remove phosphate because it only relies on bacteria.
I dont believe in only changing one gallon at a time because when you remove the next gallon 1/300th of new water is removed again
If you look at Alexanders tank he only kept one or two fish. I feed coral food so I run into issues.
If you want to lower phosphate and stick with zeovit I would try AA LPS as it will turn into Nitrate and be used by bacteria while keeping dissolved organic material up DOM. Bulk reef supply used it heavly and their triton testing came back overly low for phosphate. Even Thomas Phol recommened it more then the high consentrate. I would start up a converstation with bulk reef supply on the reef2reef forum and see if they will answer you in there own thread
Jeff what is your Nitrate at right now
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  #48  
Old 01-12-2018, 03:45 AM
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G.Alexander G.Alexander 目前離線
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The quick PO4 changes can cause issue so if you have removed the absorber now completely again there might be a quick increase of PO4 within a short period again so the quick up and downs are the problem. It would be better to remove the absorber step by step but this is not possible with the material you have used. Lets see what the PO4 is doing over the next couple of days.

As you have mention that the algae all grow while one day being not present at the morning, are you sure that those are not Dinoflaggelate ?

G.Alexander
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  #49  
Old 01-12-2018, 02:12 PM
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@Bugger- Nitrates sit tight right at 3 ppm. I will run a full range of tests tonight and post.
About the fish load.. I so did not know this. I heard everyone say to get your bioload up. This is the best food for your corals. Kind of disappointed.
I actually do like the water changing system tho. One gallon at a time, no worries about temp changes, or additional issues of shock as the changes are made so gradually and consistently. Stability is key, right? But, I will increase the amount being changed to 25 gallons per week.
Thanks for the advice on the AA's. I will order that.
I guess i had in mind about having a straight ZEOvit system, but it sounds like most people use more or less blended systems.

@G.Alexander - I will monitor the PO4 on a daily basis for a while. I think i got lax on testing that because it appeared to be so stable for so long I was testing frequently enough.
What product available here do you recommend for long term phosphate control, obviously as we saw, Kent's product worked very fast and efficiently but came with a warning to not be used for more then 48 hours or the phosphates would be released back into the water. Nice emergency product but useless for constant control. i have pellet reactor that could be installed in less then one minute.
Truthfully, I am not sure. They do not seem to form a film but more of a dry looking powdery coating on each sand particle. If you probe it, it barely causes and clumping and falls apart easily. It is releasing a lot of air bubbles but from what I have read that could be either.
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  #50  
Old 01-12-2018, 08:25 PM
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Keep in mind you were having success eariler while using another product vibrant bacteria.

You can still keep more fish if your willing to put in the extra effort with additional products or if your a purest get some bio mate and cyano clean.
Even if you look into the featured tanks many swayed away from zeovit or used other products while using zeovit.
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  #51  
Old 01-13-2018, 12:02 AM
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G.Alexander G.Alexander 目前離線
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IMO it is better to find the source of the problem, getting rid of it instead of constant fighting against it. Usually you should be able to keep nutrients under control with the system, if that does not work there is something wrong. To much nutrient import compared to the output or any kind of a problem with the biology.

Can you post a picture of the brown stuff ?

Dinos do release toxins which have a negative impact to the biology and the corals.

G.Alexander
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